Fete de la Musique (For Emily)

I climb out of the Odeon metro stop and instantly hear "Smells like Teen Spirit" by Nirvana covered by a cute 16-18ish boy band-so cute, wearing plaid flannel and a Nirvana T-shirt. After listening for a couple minutes I cross over to my favorite allee (Cour de Commerce) with its bright multicolored twinkle lights strung over cobble stones. Typically empty, it is now crowded with outdoor seating and a band playing "I Can't get no Satisfaction." I take a right onto Rue de St Andre des Arts and I pass a few more bands doing more covers of American songs when I happily stumble across my favorite band of the night, Otway Ross. This three piece indie rock band played original work and were really good. Even the habitually staunch Frenchies couldn't help bopping along to funky tunes, one including a song about not thinking he's creepy if he smiles, just trying to be sweet. The lead singer looked as if he had been plucked straight out of California. Sandy hair, short sleeved plaid button down paired with jeans and flip flops. The drummer in the middle with sunglasses perched on his head throws my American group theory when he is called Seamus and the bass player, definetly French with his petite build, slicked hair and cigarette dangling from his lips. (I looked the band up today, and they are based in France, but the lead singer spoke very bad French, so expats perhaps?) After bopping along till the end of their set I head towards St Michelle, hearing everything from rap to steel drum groups.

Turning left at the Seine, I make my way towards the Louvre hoping to culture it up with some opera or orchestra. A reggae group plays in front of the Eglise St Germain l'Auxerrios at the far east end of the Louvre. I cross Rue de Rivoli to the Comedie Française thinking I am sure to meet with an orchestra in the square-none. But in between the square and the Grand Palais a choir takes advantage of the acoustics in the alcove.

Back to the Louvre, where sadly, I find nothing! In front of Arts Decoratifs an exclusive looking group dance with cocktails in their hands to unimaginitive DJing under purple lights-so right bank.

Back to the left bank. I cross over in front of the Musée D'Orsay and walk towards Solferino. I hear what sounds like wannabe old school jazz (think Amy Winehouse) which turns into more thumping. A night club like atmosphere has taken over the street, where at least this time there are real performers. Being on my own and not fond of being picked up I push my way through the cigarette smelling (typical) and rose scented (oh the parisiennes love of parfume) crowd.

I turn left onto St Germain, I am really hoping to hear some jazz! I come across a Latin American group beautifully staged in a courtyard with incredible light installations, but not my type of music. Arriving at St Germain des Près and the oh so famous Café Flores and Café Duex Magots, where this a boy of about 10 playing his electric guitar to White Stripes (mind you, its about 1130 at this time). He proudly competes with a much larger production in front of the church across the square.

I take a seat at café Bonaparte to soak in the last bit of atmosphere and get a petite crème before I have to catch the last train out of Paris. Despite being nearly midnight and Monday, Paris looks like 3pm on a Saturday afternoon. There is a definite fete atmosphere and it feels more like a welcome to summer than a music celebration. While observing the fashion and attitudes of the super cool St Germainites, I ponder the lack of ability of the French in delivering good new music. (Disclaimer-I am aware of exceptions, Madeline Peyroux and Pheonix to name a couple- I am just talking stereo types). But as far as music goes, especially modern music, the French do not have the edge. One thing I have observed about the French is they have sought the best- quality, procedure and structure-and in so many ways have it right and nothing can touch the essence that is French. But with this well deserved superiority comes an acute inability to think outside the box and those who try lack originality and often miss the mark. Often it is a cheap and unimaginitive imitation and I am sorry to say feels a bit euro trashy. Sadly, some even try to mess with what is already perfection within itself - why accompany Le Vie en Rose on an accordian with a boom box!?!

But over all, I really enjoyed Fete de la Musique for the music, the atmosphere, the extremely late sunset behind the Eiffel Tower as well as pondering all that is French. (PS I'm sure what was really lacking, was not taste, but good friends! Love you and miss you all.)